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His jewellery can reference doves in flight, golden padlocks and bejewelled anatomy similar to hearts, eyes and ears. To produce these pieces, Schiaparelli collaborated with many gifted specialists, together with Jean Clément, François Hugo and Jean Schlumberger. Its shape was modelled on the costume type of actress Mae West, then in Schiaparelli’s atelier (workshop), and featured a measuring tape around the shoulders. Schiaparelli hired avant‑garde photographer Ilse Bing to create advertisements for her new trio of fragrances – Schiap for daytime, Soucis for late afternoon and Salut for evening. At the premises on Place Vendôme, a large golden birdcage, conceived by inside designer Jean‑Michel Frank, enclosed the fragrance section of the ground‑floor boutique.

A design function throughout her clothes and equipment, it stays an inspiration for Daniel Roseberry right now. This embroidery pattern by Maison Lesage exhibits the decadent gold thread passementerie (decorative trimmings) that might have adorned Schiaparelli eveningwear. Elsa Schiaparelli’s Autumn 1938 press launch announced designs in ‘ black sprinkled with purest gold ’. He embraced past designers – including Elsa Schiaparelli, Paul Poiret and Madame Grès – to create sculptural silhouettes.

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Her tailored jackets for daywear have been equally distinctive, with bold buttons and outsized pockets. She revelled in public attention and her personal wardrobe reflected a cosmopolitan life. Prominent pockets, as seen on the jacket, became a frequent function of Schiaparelli’s daywear. She capitalised on the press consideration her clothes and private life acquired, designing a print with news cuttings about herself. Schiaparelli’s first solo collection, designed in January 1927, featured geometric patterned, black and white knitwear.

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